Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer community stirs from its winter slumber. It's the beginning of the bullfighting season and all paths seem to lead aficionados and early tourists from the arena straight to Lulu's bar. Lulu is radiant. When she was seventeen, and went by the name of Lucien, she headed off for more convivial surroundings. Homosexuality and local macho culture have never been a good mix. Lulu, who dipped into drugs and prostitution before her sex-change operation, can now stand proud: she has not only set up her bar, but also made it the place to be. This year, as per usual, journalists, tourists and people passionate about bullfighting have all flocked to the place.